Thursday 31 January 2008

ROUND CANONMILLS WAY

The weekend’s gigging had gone well, Nick had dropped off the van and had sent me a text informing me that he was studying in the Conan Doyle (York Place, 4/5/8/10/11/12/15/17/26/44/45). A couple of hours later, I was wandering into town, on a mission for something to eat when I decided I’d chance phoning him.

“You still in the Conan Doyle mate?” I asked.
“Of course I am!” came the reply. I made a quick detour to the cash machine in the Omni Centre, and had a pint of Belhaven Best in my hand within about 3 minutes. Happy days. There’s not much to say about the Conan Doyle, but I can thoroughly recommend the salt and pepper scampi.

The Stag’s Head (Broughton Road, 13/36) was our next port of call. Strangely enough it was decorated in Manchester City paraphernalia. Obviously Canonmills’ local team.

Across the road was Maclachlan’s ( Canonmills, 8/17/36), a pub which served its namesake beer. Roughly the same consistency and creamy texture as Belhaven Best or indeed any other 70-/- ale, it had a pronounced hoppy bitterness to it. Very drinkable. Also there was a nice soundtrack on in the gents (see “Quote of the day” feature, below)

Smithey’s (Eyre Place, 36) followed on. With its carpeted interior and centre bar, it was distinctly reminiscent of the Artisan out London Road way. I had a nice pint of Harviestoun Bitter and Twisted, Nick had a Deuchars.

I described The Orchard (Howard Place, 8/17/23/27) as looking decidedly beige from the outside. Nick hounded me about my overuse of that word, so I shall describe The Orchard as thus: The Orchard appeared beige from the outside, but from within, although the walls were painted a shade of off-white not too far from beige, the pub itself was not as beige as I had imagined it to be; not beige at all, in fact. That’s enough laboured beige uses now, but I can tell you that it exceeded my expectations – I’d always remembered it as the Northern Bar, but having seen its bei-sorry, off white exterior I had feared the worst. Nick said that he could quite happily have sat there for a good while after a day’s work. Is there a higher recommendation? Well yes, probably there is.

After taking a break to grab some food, we hopped on a bus and headed back up towards Broughton St. We were joined in The Barony (Broughton St, 8/17) by local folk singer Flora Cook. There was a folk quartet going on in the corner (well, I say folk loosely, as there was a guy on the drums, someone playing upright bass, a singer with one of those deep American FM-rock drawls and a guy fretwanking a Telecaster) who made a fairly solid attempt to drown out any conversation we might have dared to have. Given the standard of myself and Nick’s joke repertoire, this may have been to Flora’s benefit.

Mather’s (Broughton St, 8/17) is owned/run by the same folk who have its doppelganger on Queensferry St. The idea is the same, but the Broughton St one is a bit more conducive to sitting. I was going to make a joke about bums, but given the area we’re dealing with, that’s probably not a wise idea.

UNTIL THE NEXT TIME…

QUOTE OF THE DAY: “A dose of diarrhoea…how romantic” – automated loop in the gents’ toilets, Maclachlan’s.

CUMULATIVE PUB COUNT: 65

GOOD EVENING POP PICKERS

It was decided that it would be unfair for me to review my own band, and so we delegated the task to someone who could write in sentences, could hold their drink and as such would remember the performance, and could be relied upon to get it done briefly. Sadly, he was busy, and so was the next guy we asked, so it fell upon Adam Johns to become our first guest writer. Here’s what Adam had to say:

Hello fellow challengers! After persistent dedication to the cause, The Management have allowed me to write my own independent review of the most recent leg of the challenge. I would like at this point to use my newfound responsibilities to clear my name – admittedly I may not have the best of stamina where consumption of alcohol is concerned, but I do not vomit after two pints as has previously been suggested! Now back to the review – on the night of the 16th I was invited a pop concert in the renowned Henry’s Cellar Bar (Morrison St, 1/2/34/35). The event itself was a warm up gig for The Wynd as they were opening for The Bluetones the following night. The venue is well known within Edinburgh as a crèche for up and coming bands: decent sized stage, good-ish PA system and plenty of space to get your funk on, as I did. Accompanying me to spectate and indulge were recognised challengers Philip Brough and Mike Maguire, and as much as it was good to see my West Country chum, the sight of Maguire’s purple shirt did make me slightly nauseous - especially when he had worn it the previous Saturday night. What can I say? the boy obviously likes feminine colours. The drinks may have been on the expensive side but there was a well stocked variety of beers in the fridge but in a venue which shares its toilets with a Chinese restaurant the service always came with a smile that said “I’ll do you a good beer but a chicken chow mein is not on offer tonight.”

Note to perspective clientele of Henry’s Cellar Bar though: do not order double vodka red bull - it may cause you to increase your student overdraft. All in all the atmosphere, drinks and entertainment culminated in a very good night and I would recommend the venue to any music enthusiast wanting to sample some of Edinburgh’s finest musical talent.


The night continued upstairs in the Festival Tavern where… (that’s enough Adam, thank you – ed.)

There’s a great little passage in Ian Rankin’s Fleshmarket Close in which Rebus is in the Oxford Bar supping a pint of Deuchars (no change there then).

“As happened on a good night in the Ox, conversations ebbed and flowed, people joining in two discussions at once, bringing them together only for them to splinter again after a few minutes. There were bad jokes and worse puns[.]”

This describes fairly accurate the scenes in The Festival Tavern (Morrison St, 1/2/34/35), located directly above Henry’s. We had a huge crowd with us and stayed there all night long (£2.20 a pint of Best = bonus), I honestly couldn’t tell you any stories for the reasons mentioned above and also because I don’t want to mention the fact that I nearly walked into a cleaning cupboard, having mistaken it for a toilet - but it was a good time. The rest of the band (except Chris, who’d gone home to “rest his throat” for the next night) hung around, Paddy eventually needing to be put to bed by his flatmate; Nick was spouting pish to all who were prepared to listen (and a number of others who weren’t); and Adam left early, dragging Hollie with him.

QUOTE OF THE NIGHT:

Chris McCall (introducing “The Boy Who Had to Deny His Pride”): “This is a song about married women”
Adam Johns: “Where’s Nick when you need him?”

Until the next time…

CUMULATIVE PUB COUNT: 58

Sunday 13 January 2008

OPEN INVITATION

The Management would like to extend an invitation to all to join us for our next pub or two: this coming Friday (18th January), Edinburgh indie-popsters The Wynd play at Henry's Cellar Bar on Morrison St (opposite the Odeon Theatre on Lothian Road). They (ok, we) are on at 7.30 and are playing a set to warm up for a gig supporting The Bluetones in Dunfermline the following night. Tickets are priced at £2 and can be bought on the door.

Do feel free to come and say hello.

IN WITH THE NEW

Having finished in 2007 in a beige Wetherspoons environment, it was imperative that 2008’s efforts in the Great Edinburgh Pub Challenge should being somewhere with a little more character. The Grey Horse (Dalkeith Road, 2/14/30/33) was our opening pub for the year. Situated about three-quarters of the way down Dalkeith Road, just about opposite the junction with Prestonfield Road, The Grey Horse appears run down from the outside and that impression remains when you step across the threshold. However, the locals were friendly and the pints were good, so no complaints shall be heard. Sadly we didn’t get to speak to a man who was pointed out to us only by the name of Dick Savage, but I’m sure he had some fairly interesting stories. Not one for the faint hearted, but I kind of enjoyed it.

This opening junket of 2008 took place on a Sunday evening (a week ago tonight, no less), and so public transport wasn’t at its most efficient. We managed to finish our pints in the Grey Horse just in time to catch a 33 out of town, past the Infirmary, round the back of Moredun to Ferniehill and into Gilmerton. We thought that we could see a pub just around the corner and so we got off the bus at Hyvot’s Bank. Alas, it was just a corner shop and so rather sheepishly we got on the same bus as it caught up with us, probably much to the amusement of the peroxide heavy, high decibel, mobile phone “music” blaring ned types who were sat up the back. No big loss. We were only on the move for another two minutes or so, to Gracemount in fact, when we spotted The Marmion (Captain’s Road, 7/11/18), a John Barra’s pub. Being a chain effort it was mundane inside, and there is little to be said about it other than WOULD THEY PLEASE TURN THE MUSIC DOWN BECAUSE YOU CAN HARDLY HEAR YOURSELF SPEAK. High volume music isn’t necessary when there are 4 people in the bar at something past ten on a Sunday night. Oh, and there was a murder there not long back. Probably the most interesting thing about the place.

We’ve got friends from Liberton, so we missed out everything round that area on our way back in, and got off the bus at St Patrick Square in order to pay a visit to The Southsider (West Richmond St, 2). I’ve always had a soft spot for this pub; it’s lively (mobbed at the weekends) but usually there’s space if you want to just go for a few quiet jars. The beer is both good and reasonably priced – interestingly this is the only place of which I am aware that sells McLay’s 70 -/-. I am open to correction though, and I suppose as this Challenge goes on, I’ll find out. Nick challenged me to a game of pool – I accepted, subject to being allowed to have a game of fussball afterwards. I lost both (narrowly).

One of the problems with drinking around the university it that there are a lot of crappy, soulless, leather and chrome, pretentious, coffee serving type places. Both Native State (Potterrow, 41/42) and Assembly (Lothian St, 2/41/42) fall into this category. Now call me old for my time on this earth, but I prefer to go to a pub with a bit of character, where you can get a good pint of good beer, preferably costing under £3 than one of these plush joints with their chill-out music and extortionate bar tariffs. I’m sure they’re ok if you’re a cocktail swilling ponce though.

UNTIL THE NEXT TIME…

Cumulative pub count: 56

Monday 7 January 2008

An Update from Our Resident Statistician - The First Fifty

1. The Rainbow, Drum Brae South
2. The Oak Inn, St John’s Road
3. Thomson’s Bar, Morrison Street
4. The Ossian, Morrison Street
5. Turnhouse Bar, J.D. Wetherspoons, Edinburgh Airport
6. Caledonian Ale House, Haymarket Terrace
7. Robbie’s, Leith Walk
8. Roseburn Bar, Roseburn Terrace
9. Caledonian Sample Rooms, Angle Park Terrace
10. Tiles, St Andrew’s Square
11. The Station Bar, Cadzow Place
12. Artisan Bar, London Road
13. Middleton’s, Easter Road
14. Boda, Leith Walk
15. Playfair, Lloyd’s Number 1, Omni Centre
16. Ardmillan Hotel, Ardmillan Terrace
17. Theatre Royal, Greenside Place
18. Horseshoe Bar, Leith Walk
19. City Limits, Leith Walk
20. Morning(side) Glory, Comiston Road
21. Good Companions, Oxgangs Bank
22. Jekyll and Hyde, Hanover Street
23. Rutland, Rutland Place
24. Athletic Arms (Diggers), Angle Park Terrace
25. McCowan’s Brewhouse, Fountainbridge
26. Ryrie’s, Haymarket Terrace
27. Haymarket, Haymarket Gyratory System
28. Mercat, West Maitland Street
29. Grosvenor, Shandwick Place
30. Scruffy Murphy’s, Queensferry Street
31. Ryan’s Bar, Queensferry Street
32. Mather’s Bar, Queensferry Street
33. Logie Baird’s Bar, The Bank Hotel, South Bridge
34. Stage Door, Home Street
35. Bennett’s Bar, Leven Street
36. King’s Bar, Home Street
37. Cloisters, Brougham Place
38. Volunteer Arms (Staggs), North High Street, Musselburgh
39. Hayweight, North High Street, Musselburgh
40. Ravelston House Hotel, North High Street, Musselburgh
41. The Ship Inn, North High Street, Musselburgh
42. Lord Bodo’s, York Place
43. The Black Bull, Grassmarket
44. The Bee Hive, Grassmarket
45. The White Hart, Grassmarket
46. The Last Drop, Grassmarket
47. The Windsor Buffet, Leith Walk
48. Beer Stall, German Market, Princes Street Gardens (Christmas Season Only)
49. The Wash Bar, The Mound
50. All Bar One, George Street

OUT WITH THE OLD

Sunday afternoons are generally times of boredom, making them ideal for visits to the pub, where we can both add to the total, and watch the football at the same time. Arsenal v Chelsea was the occasion this time, and the Windsor Buffet (Leith Walk, 7/10/11/12/14/16/22/25/49) was the venue. A cosy wee joint, the Windsor is usually fairly busy and does a good pint. Some quality armchairs around, too.

What’s the first thing you want to do on what is arguably the coldest day of the year? Have a beer outside, of course. Leaving the Windsor, we donned our beer jackets and headed to the Beer Stallin the German Market (Princes St Gardens, just behind the National Galleries, 1/3/4/10/11/12/13/15/16/17/19/22/23/24/25/26/27/30/31/33/34/37/41/42/44/45/47/100…phew) for a pint. OK, so it’s not really a pub as such but we’re trying to cover as many different things as possible here, so no arguments will be entered into. Notable not only for it being Nick’s first lager of the Pub Challenge, the Beer Stall may well prove to be the most expensive place we’ll visit – 12 pounds we handed over for two pints of Paulaner! (Don’t worry, a fiver of that was only as a deposit for the glasses and was duly returned.)

The one thing that the beer stall was lacking was a toilet, so we trekked up The Mound to The Wash (Bank Street, 23/27/41/42/45) for a swift Guinness. Notorious for attracting an, er, unique crowd, The Wash is one of those places which is dead during the day but can be mobbed at the weekend as suburbia descends into the City Centre. We were just about the only folk in, so we drank up and left.


Fast forward three days, and we found ourselves in All Bar One (George St, 13/23/24/27/29/42/45), our meeting point before heading to see local indie popsters Aberfeldy at the new-ish Voodoo Rooms on West Register St. I firmly believe that All Bar One is one of the best pub chains; my bases for this opinion are that 1) they actually offer a decent range of beers and serve them well; and 2) they have some very attractive barmaids. Our stay was short and sweet, many of the Pub Challenge regulars failing to show up; Adam Johns – working; Ian Davidson – MIA; Greig Bongham – actually I can’t remember what his excuse was but he wasn’t there anyway. Phil Brough managed to make an impact upon his arrival though, sadly also so did his pint glass when it smashed on the floor 30 seconds later. Oops.

Those of you who pay attention to these things may have worked out that All Bar One was the 50th pub on the Great Edinburgh Pub Challenge. Our intention had been to wrap up 2007 on a round number, but like all good plans this soon went tits up. Brough started complaining (“Ere, I want a pear cider, me”, he said) that he hadn’t had enough to drink pre-gig. Now wanting a pear cider is rarely a valid excuse for anything (except perhaps being a homosexual) but we thought it justified going to Standing Order (George St, 24/29/42) where Phil could have his aforementioned Kopparberg and myself and Nick could act like real men and have a pint. Now, seeing as their cavernous venues are found around the country, I won’t patronise our readers and go into vast detail about the décor, but let me tell you that the Standing Order was in a foul state on the night of our visit. Opening the front door you were overwhelmed with the stench of vomit. This didn’t shift when you moved into the main room. Nor did it shift when you moved to the bar. I know that accidents happen, but I hope that Environmental Health didn’t pay a visit that evening.

And so that rounds off 2007’s activity for the Great Edinburgh Pub Challenge, many thanks for reading and coming along on the way. The 2008 updates will commence shortly, watch this space…

Until the next time…


QUOTE OF THE NIGHT: "You've had enough, would you kindly leave the premises?" - Voodoo Rooms door staff (to Nick)
CUMULATIVE PUB COUNT: 51

Thursday 3 January 2008

GRASSMARKET PARTS I-IV

For those of you who are not familiar with Edinburgh, it is perhaps worth explaining the nature of the Grassmarket. For decades it was a run down area in the centre of the Old Town, but recently has enjoyed a revival and is extremely popular with rugby crowds, stag parties and the like. Consequently, and despite the fact that it sports numerous pubs, it is not one of the greatest areas in town in which to drink.

The Great Edinburgh Pub Challenge guide to the Grassmarket will be split in two; it is anticipated that the next instalment will follow at some point during 2008.

The Black Bull (Grassmarket, 2) (not to be confused with its namesake on Calton Road) was our meeting point for the night. This is probably the largest of the Grassmarket pubs, yet space was at a premium as Rangers were being humped by Lyon on the night of our visit. Perhaps the only notable feature of our visit was that celebrity absentee Adam Johns had showed up, accompanied by his lady-friend Hollie. We decided it was best to go easy on Adam, and promised that no mention would be made of the fact that Hollie could drink her pints considerably more quickly. Erm…

Next door(ish) is The Beehive (Grassmarket, 2). Smaller than the Black Bull, it features a number of rooms and apparently a very nice beer garden out the back – sadly, early December wasn’t ideal to visit this. Pints of Guinness arrived with over an inch of head, and – despite the temptation to make numerous double entendres – this really wasn’t good enough. Get it sorted please.

The White Hart (Grassmarket, 2) is a more intimate affair, and probably my pick of those in the locality. It is notable for having been one of the few pubs in Edinburgh to have been non-smoking throughout even before the introduction of the smoking ban in March 2005. Our collective huddled round a table and were serenaded by a fantastic folk duo running through a set of standards. The tranquillity was short lived, unfortunately, being duly shattered by Phil Brough shouting “Ere, I want to hear Scarborough Fair, me” at regular intervals.

The Last Drop (Grassmarket, 2) was our final port of call for the night. Again it was wholly unspectacular in nature, and our stay was uneventful save for the slightly strange (and seemingly inexplicable) sight of Adam Johns running in and our like a yoyo. Readers familiar with Mr Johns may have their own suspicions as to the reasoning behind this, but The Management would like to point out that (for once), Adam was NOT being sick.

Until the next time….

CUMULATIVE PUB COUNT: 46